The reality is, pin designers have very little control over the manufacturing process of their pins, and it is only until they are received that sellers can determine how they can sell them. Because these items are hand crafted and produced en masse, the end product may not always be perfect. Therefore the Pin Grading System is a scale used by pin makers as a quality standard to determine their sellability.
The system is generally divided into three grades: A Grade/Standard, B Grade, and C Grade/Seconds and the definition of each may differ from one pin maker to another. The following are mine which I use to grade my own pins, with the addition of a Midgrade category.
**I reserve the right to be more lenient with the grading system depending on the overall quality of the batch.**
[ A GRADE / STANDARD GRADE ]
Pins in this class are the best of the batch, with little to no flaws: the enamel is properly and completely filled, the screen or UV prints are correct, the metal plating is smooth, color output is comparable to the Pantone swatch — among other things. But due to their handcrafted nature, it can be expected that some pins in this category may still have:
- light scratches/nicks/scuffing/pin pricks on the metal or enamel (not affecting the face)
- very minimal enamel under fill
- one or two small areas that may have been miscolored but does not affect the design as a whole
- minimal tarnishing/oxidation and/or other imperfections on the plating on the front and/or sides of the pin
- metal flecks/dust, and other small manufacturing residue
I typically polish my pins with a soft cloth as they go through quality checking and try to buff out or wipe off the residue to make them as clean as possible.
The pins that fall under these criteria are best for display purposes.
[ MIDGRADES ]
This category is for pins that have marginally more flaws than A grades but not quite B grades just yet. They are technically A grades but their errors — though minimal — are more obvious.
As a general rule, as long as the flaw does not affect or alter 1. The face, and 2. the overall look of the entire pin greatly, it is considered A Grade/Standard or Midgrade.
[ B GRADES ]
Since my designs are very detailed, the chances of having flaws are higher than normal.
Pins that fall under this criteria have more noticeable flaws/imperfections. They have a wider spectrum that fall short of Midgrades and edge closely to Seconds. While these pins are not as perfect, they're still very much presentable and are typically used for "play" rather than display. Some collectors prefer to buy Class B pins as these flaws give them character; “battle scars”, if you will. These include, but not limited to:
- moderate scratches/nicks/scuffing/marks/gouges on the metal and/or enamel
- noticeable enamel under fill on moderate to wide areas (including the face)
- no fill/missing enamel
- no screen or UV print
- wide miscolored areas
- missing lines on the metal
- burned/tarnished/oxidized metal on the front facing side of the pin
- noticeable metal flecks/dust, other manufacturing residue including anti-tarnish oils* that have been faintly wiped off or scrubbed out
*Please note that I do not use oils to clean and polish my pins. These oils are applied to the pin by the manufacturer.
[ CLASS C / SECONDS ]
These pins are the most flawed of the batch; wearable if you'd rather just put them in places where wear and tear is high. The severity of their errors can range from any or all of the following:
- multiple or large under fills
- multiple areas with no enamel
- cracked enamel
- deep scratches/marks/gouges on the metal and/or enamel
- large areas with missing/broken metal
- wide areas with discoloration
- large flecks, stains and other manufacturing residue including anti-tarnish oils that cannot be wiped off or scrubbed out
- missing backstamp
I do not include the back of the pin in my quality checking as they are not usually visible when displaying the pins. Any discoloration/imperfections in that area - unless truly exceptionally glaring - does not bear any weight to how I will classify a pin.
Also, PLEASE NOTE: The type of clasp that comes with these pins are either rubber or metal/butterfly. I may or may not disclose the type of clasp especially for older stocks as these are not technically part of the design and can be changed by the buyer. If you prefer a certain clasp, you have the option to change it on your own.
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Thank you so much for reading this far! If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out via email or my Contact Page.